New knitting

There’s nothing quite like cozying up in a hand-knit sweater that wraps you in warmth and softness, and our Field Sweater sample does just that. Designed by Camilla Vad, this sample was knit earlier this year—part of a collection we shared at 2025 h+h Americas. This collection was created to showcase the magic of SweetGeorgia’s hand-dyed yarns. The gentle halo from SweetGeorgia Silk Mist yarn floats over every stitch, lending a dreamy, ethereal quality that perfectly complements the intricate yoke design. Paired with the cozy embrace of SweetGeorgia Trifecta Fine, the result is a garment that feels as inviting as it looks—light, airy, and irresistibly soft. KNITTING THE FIELD SWEATER Knitting Camilla Vad’s popular Field Sweater was an absolute dream every step of the way. Knit from the top down and seamlessly except for the underarms, this sweater features a beautiful grain pattern cascading down the yoke. This project was chosen to highlight the combination of the light softn...

A reed substitution chart is a great way to extend your reeds to be used at a wide range of setts on multi-shaft looms. For example, a 10-dent reed doesn’t always need to be used to get a sett of 10 ends per inch (EPI). You could also use a 6-dent reed sleyed “1-2-2” or an 8-dent reed sleyed “1-1-1-2” to get the same result. To use this chart, find the reed size you are using (e.g., 6 dents per inch). Then, look down the column for the sett that you would like to use (e.g., 20 ends per inch). Now, look across the row to the first column to find the sequence to sley in the reed (e.g., 3 ends, 3 ends, and 4 ends or 3-3-4). One reed can cover a range of ends per inch requirements! Note: the values in this chart were calculated from the following formula. The chart may differ slightly from other historical references that you might encounter: Number of Ends in Sequence ÷ Number of Dents in Sequence × Reed Size = Sett (round to nearest 0.5) More About Felicia Lo SweetGeorgia Ins...

As a newer knitter, the smorgasbord of yarns on the market can be confusing and overwhelming, from lace to jumbo weight, and every yarn in between. You want to work with a fingering-weight yarn, but why do some say sock yarn? The yardage and thickness are the same. So, what’s the difference between fingering and sock yarns? How do you make sense of all these labels? If you want to understand the different yarn weights, check out Tabetha Hedrick’s article, Demystifying Yarn Weight . Yarn Construction Before we get started, let’s clarify the terms singles and ply(ing) . If you examine any yarn closely, most can be untwisted to reveal several threads. Each thread is a single , and twisting multiple singles together is known as plying . If you count the number of threads plied together in a yarn, you can see if it is a 2-, 3-, or 4-ply yarn (or sometimes more plies!). If the yarn cannot be separated into multiple threads, it is a singles yarn. Singles yarns are sometimes incorrectly...

Looking for a hat that challenges your knitting skills plus uses up your stash of DK weight yarns? We’re delighted to share our knit sample of the Transmission hat, part of the Frequential: Six Waveform Hats collection by fabulous hat designer Woolly Wormhead. KNITTING THE TRANSMISSION HAT Woolly Wormhead’s Transmission pattern includes both a beanie and a slouch version. We chose to knit a sample of the slouch version, combining SweetGeorgia Merino DK as the main colour with a micro-skein of SweetGeorgia Tough Love Sock held double for the complementary colour.  Any of the six hats in the collection are designed to use up one skein of DK weight yarn and about 20 yds / 18 m of the complementary colour. We love this potential for creating fun colour combinations. It’s a great option to combine that special skein with something from your yarn stash. However, if you’re looking for hand-dyed colour ideas, we have you covered with some suggestions below. Slate & Day...

Let’s talk about weaving circles in tapestry! When weaving weft-faced circles, I always draw my circle right on the warp and follow those dots on the warp precisely. This means covering up the drawing completely. Circle drawn onto warp. I’m not super picky about my circles being exactly symmetrical so my stepping will not be the exact same on all sides, but I do want to point out a couple of things about stepping (decreasing/increasing) on a circle that might not seem obvious to a beginner tapestry weaver, as well as some other important tips. Where to Begin When weaving shapes in tapestry, you want to always build the shape that is decreasing in size first. For circles, this means weaving some of the background negative space first, i.e., not the circle, as per the illustration below. Start by weaving the decreasing shapes, shown here with blue weft. We stop weaving this area before it begins to increase in shape. It is then that we can weave our entire circle, and then proc...